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I just had a manual J done on our upstairs attic based TWE Air Handler unit. It is supposed to be 1.5 tons and its 2.5. We have already turned down the speed of the blower to 350CFM and had the variable speed ramp up turned on. But last summer we still had too much humidity upstairs probably from this oversized system.
So, without ripping out the air handler and making a gigantic mess to get it out, can I make it work with a smaller condensor and adjust the air volume somehow? Trane's local rep said this was possible but the Manual J folks don't do Trane so I need to make sure I find a smart tech locally to do this for me. To complicate things too, the HVAC tech orginally installed a Rheem compressor so it is a mismatched sytem to start with.
Originally posted by mark beiser The TWE031E air handler will match up with any of Trane's 1.5 ton R-22 outdoor units. Ya, but what kind of SEER you gonna get out of that? Probably on the upper end of the spectrum for the given outdoor unit. It definatly won't hurt the SEER. Edit The 1.5 ton XR13 heat pump, 2TWR3018, would be 14 SEER with the air handler moving 650 CFM of air, slightly lower moving 600 CFM, but has better latent capacity at the lower airflow.
Edited by mark beiser on at 12:27 AM. Sorry for the delay.the guy who did the Man J that said 1.5 tons never could produce the paperwork so I called Trane locally and had them recommend someone who came over and just did a Man J and gave me the paperwork. Instead of the 2.5 up in the attic they say 1.9 or use a 2 ton.
The structure load is 13980btuh and the equipment sensible load is 17032BTUh. They say my VS TWE031 air handler will have no problem interfacing with a 2 ton XL14i 14 seer R-22 outside unit. But they are proposing a few things which seem reasonable but I wonder are they overkill? 14 Seer instead of 13 (its 10 now with the Rheem). Replace the downstairs unit with a Trane since the Rheem mismatch will void my Trane warranty - true?
Change out my attic duct work from all round rigid (sized right at least) to rectangular trunk with dampered flex to each room.say that the round (which is dented in a few spots you can see) may be contributing to higher velocity airflow that increases humidity. Add returns in all the bedrooms. Consider a 16 Seer 2 stage unit even. What do you guys think?? These guys seem to know what they are talking about - quite thorough and professional. 1.It's up to you,and your budget now and what you'll pay tom operate 2.The Tranes the indoor section,so I don't see how,but I guess it could.I'd be more concerned about the outdoor unit as that's what may fail due to a mismatch. 3.Don't see any need,other then noise,they can slow the air by installing a damper that will increase the static.If the air handler has a VS fan,then no difference at all.
4.Always a good idea,but a properly sized return path works as well.The space uner the door may be enough,or use a 'jumper return'.It may not cost much more to duct the return to each room,so if needed depends on cost alternatives.If needed you would have had temp. Differences between rooms,when the doors were closed. 5.You skipped it,so will I.lol!!
6.Much better dehumidification,with the right control,but again the cost is up to you. I know quite a few trane dealers here that are pushing the 14 seer stuff over 13 seer. Mainly because there is not much a price differnce to go to the 14 seer. One thing I'm not sure about is if Trane has a 22 system in 16 seer?
I thought once you got up the high end equipment in trane it was all 410-A. One question you may also consider is your warranty. I do know if the system is matched and installed trane at the same time. Your warranty on all parts inside and out is 10 years. Maybe if your a/h isn't that old you can get them to do a 10 year warranty on it.
Thanks.the contractor is saying now that the ductwork must be changed in order to improve the humidity. Here is what he wrote.
Is this for real? Or do I just need to lower tonnage compressor and leave the old ductwork? 'the reason we want to expand the return is to accommodate the static pressure inside the new ductwork. If we are not changing the supply duct there is no reason to expand the returns. I only saw 2 dampers up there and they were on the wrong ducts. Also the duct of the end cap doesn’t have a damper.
I don’t believe we will able to do anything to improve the comfort level on your second floor. If we leave the existing ductwork in the attic and simply change the outdoor unit it is not going to do anything for humidity.
I would save my money and leave the rheem. I understand that this may be more than you anticipated, but without making the changes we spoke about the situation on your second floor will not change or improve. In order to improve the humidity situation you need to have a properly designed and installed duct system.' Quick Navigation. Site Areas. Forums.